23 June 2017

Alan Rosenberg 47 mins · I wouldn't wear any of it myself but Demna Gvesalia is a genius and is going to be as big as his mentors Jean Paul Gaultier and Martin Margiela, if he wants to be. The recent Vetements and Balenciaga collections are very intelligent: Gvesalia is a post-post modernist, working with archetypes of the fashion history of "ordinary" people. The clothes are excellent investments for serious fashion collectors, not necesarily to wear but to sell at a profit or donate to museums 20-30 years from now. Of course much of it is just based on something from a thrift shop but the way Gvesalia works as a team is that he, with his collaborators pick an archetype (hey gang, let's do "Uncle Charlie's happy hour 1986") and then they do lots of research (remember these kids were not even born in 1986) and then they painstakingly re-create the look, through a long design process. It's not a dumb as it looks.

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